High Gears on Derailler Do Not Work as Well as the Low Gears UPDATED

High Gears on Derailler Do Not Work as Well as the Low Gears

All photos: Gerow

In one case you have learned the nuts of installing a 1X drivetrain, in that location are a host of details to fine-tuning and maintaining it. Eventually, it will start making annoying clicking sounds, or skipping out of the gear y'all select. From the get-go day a new drivetrain is installed until it is recycled, pieces stretch, loosen, vesture, and become bent. The troubleshooting guide below will have y'all through some mutual shifting issues, followed past their nigh likely causes and solutions.

We volition stick to problems that plague rear derailleurs, as 1X setups are common on most modern mountain bikes. For older bikes with front derailleur problems, the solution is quite simple: Remove the front derailleur and replace the chainrings with a single 1X-specific band and broad range cassette. Boom! You only cutting your drivetrain problems in half.

Drivetrain definitions

In all seriousness, we need to define a few key terms before starting. If y'all already know bike drivetrain nomenclature yous tin skip ahead to the troubleshooting section.

Low limit spiral

The depression limit screw adjusts the limit of how far a derailleur tin motility toward the everyman gear. The lowest gear is the big spinny one used to climb steep stuff, and information technology is located nearest the spokes.

The shift cablevision pulls against the derailleur's jump to shift into lower gears and releases cable tension to allow the same leap to pull the derailleur into higher gears. When yous shift into the lowest gear y'all are putting direct pressure on the derailleur via cable tension, and the limit screw is what keeps it from going likewise far and falling off the cassette. The ideal position for this limit is where it stops the derailleur'due south upper caster (a.yard.a. jockey bike) directly below the everyman gear and does not permit it to go whatever further.

Loftier limit screw

The high limit screw adjusts the limit of how far a derailleur can motion toward the highest gear. The highest gear is the footling one near the bike's seat-stay and chain-stay junction. Just like the everyman gear, the platonic limit adjustment places the derailleur's upper caster straight in line with the highest gear, preventing the chain from shifting off of the cassette and into the frame.

B screw

The B screw (a.k.a. body-angle screw) adjusts the amount of space between the upper pulley and the everyman gear, which affects chain wrap and low gear shifting.

Chain wrap is the amount of chain that interacts with any given cog in the cassette, from the bespeak the chain kickoff touches the cog until information technology leaves on its style to the chainring.

Most of the time a bike will shift properly with the upper pulley wheel 5-6mm away from the lowest cog. Turn the B screw clockwise to make the gap larger, and counterclockwise to close the gap.

Barrel adjusters

On modern mountain bike shifters, butt adjusters are mounted on the shifter, correct where the cable housing exits the shifter torso. They substantially work like bolts that the cable housing sits against, allowing constructive length adjustment of the cable housing. The shift cable passes through the hollow center of the barrel adjuster.

Barrel adjusters can exist made of plastic or metallic, and are usually black or polished alloy in color. On flat-bar, index-shifters (standard on all mod mountain bikes), they are always located where the shift housing exits the shifter.

Turning the adjuster counterclockwise (from a rider's perspective) lengthens the cable housing slightly, which increases the tension on the cable. This added cable tension helps move the derailleur toward the lower gears. Turning the butt adjuster clockwise shortens the cablevision housing, lowers cable tension, and allows the derailleur'south jump to pull toward the higher gears.

When cable tension is properly balanced the chain will stay in the selected gear, and will move up and downwardly the cassette with equal ease, speed, and accurateness.

Derailleur troubleshooting

Ok, now we dig into the greasy bug.

This chain is In the low and slow gear.

My concatenation is falling off the largest cog of my cassette, and into my spokes

Probable the upshot is either a bent derailleur hanger or the depression limit screw needs to be adjusted.

• First, try to wiggle the cassette, then the derailleur and hanger to make sure everything is tight. If whatever of these components are loose your bicycle will not shift properly, and you will not exist able to make accurate adjustments. Also, make sure the hub is properly seated in the dropouts (QR only) and that the skewer or through-axle is tight.
• If you take not recently changed or adjusted your drivetrain and your chain is falling off into the spokes, your derailleur hanger is virtually probable bent in. If yous have a spare hanger, this is its time to smoothen. If you are on the trail you tin endeavor to bend the hanger back past hand or continue your ride using college gears to keep it from falling into the spokes. If you try to bend it back you will gamble breaking the hanger, and unless it is extremely bent you will be better off shifting into a high enough gear to keep the chain on and finishing your ride.

The derailleur hanger is a piece of aluminum bolted to your frame that your derailleur is then mounted on. Hangers are unique to your frame, and it is a adept idea to buy a spare when you buy a new frame. A hanger separates the derailleur from the frame and is designed to bend or break on impact, rather than damaging your frame or derailleur. Some steel frames, like the bluish 1 pictured in a higher place, take integrated derailleur hangers, which can be straightened but not replaced.

• If your derailleur hanger is directly you may need to adjust your low limit spiral to end the derailleur just below the largest cog. Turn the low limit spiral clockwise roughly half of a revolution, then gently turn the pedals to see if the concatenation stays put on the lowest cog. If you are using a bike-stand up this will exist far easier, as you lot can push button the derailleur into the lowest gear by hand, and adjust the limit screw precisely, while looking at the cog and caster. If you brand incremental adjustments and hand pedal the drivetrain gently and slowly to check the alignment you tin catch the concatenation earlier it falls off the cogs once again, and suit further equally needed. On the trail, y'all tin can sometimes employ a tree branch or a friend as a wheel stand. Your own neck as well works as a momentary bike stand, simply I will let yous effigy that one out if yous are and then inclined.

My chain is falling off the smallest cog and getting stuck between the frame and the cassette

The concatenation is on the high, sprinty cog.

Again, this is likely due to a bent hanger, or the high limit spiral needs to be adjusted.

• As above, make sure your derailleur, hanger, and cassette are tight, and your wheel is properly seated and tight.
• If y'all have not recently changed or adjusted your drivetrain and your chain is falling off toward the frame, your derailleur hanger is virtually likely bent outward. If you have a spare hanger, this is its day of glory. Out on the trail, you lot can try to bend the hanger back by hand or continue your ride using lower gears to keep it from falling off betwixt the cassette and frame. If you endeavour to bend it back you volition chance breaking the hanger, and unless it is extremely bent you will be better off shifting into a low enough gear to continue the chain on and finishing your ride.
• If your derailleur hanger is straight you may demand to accommodate your high limit screw to stop the derailleur just beneath the smallest cog. Turn the loftier limit spiral clockwise roughly half of a revolution, so gently plough the pedals to meet if the chain stays put on the highest cog. If you are using a bike-stand up this will be far easier, as you lot can let the derailleur'due south jump pull information technology toward the frame while adjusting the limit screw precisely below the cog. You may need to push the derailleur slightly inward while making the aligning to make it easier to turn the screw. If y'all brand incremental adjustments and hand pedal the drivetrain gently and slowly to bank check the alignment you tin can grab the chain before it falls off the cogs once again, and adjust further as needed.  On the trail, a tree branch or friend's arms tin can be a keen substitute bike stand and a nice style to continue your riding buddies warm while you wrench.

Paint impairment from a bent derailleur hanger that caused the chain to drop between the frame and cassette.

My shifting is slow, up and down the cassette, and sometimes I take to shift past a gear and then back to it

Have you changed your cables and housing recently? Often sluggish and reluctant shifts are due to debris buildup between the shift housing and the shift cablevision, kinks in the cable and/or housing, or worn out housing.

• As above, make sure your derailleur, hanger, and cassette are tight, and your cycle is properly seated and tight.
• If your shifting is more often than not slow or stilted you likely need to replace your shifter cable and housing with a fresh fix. Changing these bits is often a uncomplicated and quick way (internal routing bated) to make your drivetrain shift like new. For a detailed clarification on how to brand the swap, you tin can cheque out either this video from GMBN or this one from Seth's Bike Hacks.
• If y'all are on the trail and notice this kind of slow or viscous shifting there are a couple things you tin can try. Kickoff, look for kinks in the cable housing that may have occurred in a crash or when a stick flipped up and twisted between things. If yous find bends or kinks, gently reverse any acute angles to let the cable laissez passer more smoothly.
• If you are trailside and happen to have emergency concatenation lube (or whatever thin oil), you may be able to lube enough of the cable to go information technology to shift more smoothly. If your bike has full continuous shift housing, significant the housing goes all the way from your shifter to the derailleur body without whatsoever exposed cable outside the frame, shift into the highest gear, lube as much of the cable as you can, and and then shift back and forth from the highest to the lowest gear. This may dislodge whatever is gumming things up and let you to shift smoothly for the balance of the day. If your drivetrain uses segmented housing you can take this lube technique a step further. First, shift the derailleur into the largest cog. So, without pedaling or letting the derailleur move from the largest cog, shift all of the way to the highest gear. This will brand the shift cable equally loose equally it tin be without removing it from the derailleur'due south compression bolt. From hither you may exist able to remove segments if the cable housing, fully lube them, and slide them dorsum and along to clear debris.
• Removing the derailleur cable from the pinch bolt while out on the trail tin cause problems, specially if the cable is frayed or unwinding. Fortunately, there are not many cases where y'all would need to practise so.
• An excessively muddied drivetrain tin besides slow down your shifting. Keeping your drivetrain clean and well lubricated volition extend its functioning in multiple ways.

My shifting is slow going into harder (or easier) gears

Most often if your shifting is sluggish in one direction you can improve it by turning the barrel adjuster.

• Equally always, make certain all drivetrain components are tight, clean, and properly lubricated.
• If shifting is slower toward easier (lower) gears your shift cable is likely too loose. Plough the butt adjuster counterclockwise (from the rider'southward perspective) past half revolution increments until the tension is balanced and your bike shifts perfectly.
• If shifting is slower toward harder (higher) gears your shift cablevision is likely besides tight. Plow the barrel adjuster clockwise (from the passenger's perspective) by half revolution increments until the tension is balanced and your bike shifts perfectly.

My concatenation makes noise when I am in the everyman gear (largest cog)

Your upper derailleur pulley is likely too close to the cassette, and the B screw needs to exist adjusted.

• If your derailleur was adapted properly when the cycle was built, this outcome should but arise when you switch to a cassette with a larger low gear. If this happens "out of nowhere" your derailleur hanger may exist aptitude frontward.
• To adjust the derailleur torso further away from the cassette, plough the B screw clockwise until the upper caster site five-6mm from the largest cog.

The B screw adjusts the space between the top pulley and the largest cog.

On some modern cassettes with large gear jumps, similar Shimano'due south 11-46 cassette, you will need to adjust the B screw further, adding space between the upper pulley and the largest cog, in order to make the final shift to the lowest gear possible. First, make the normal 5-6mm adjustment. Then shift between the lowest two gears, turning the B screw a full revolution until your derailleur shifts smoothly from one to the other.

The 9-tooth difference between the final two cogs will crave more of a gap betwixt the largest cog and the upper pulley cycle in order to shift properly between the two lowest gears.

I'm getting a clicking sound when the chain jumps around between two gears

Frequently chosen "ghost shifting," this can be caused by a number of things.

• Brand sure all components of your drivetrain are tight, make clean, and properly lubricated.
• Turn the barrel adjuster a half revolution either direction to see if that solves the problem.
• Your chain may exist too long or have stretched over time. This video volition help you lot properly measure your chain length.
• You lot may accept incompatible components. Tight tolerances are key to making drivetrain parts piece of work together.
• Your derailleur hanger may be slightly bent.
• You may take debris in your cablevision housing and will need to replace information technology.
• If you have tried everything else, your drivetrain is likely worn and in need of some replacement components. Fourth dimension to hitting the cycle shop!

Chain jumps or slips when I pedal hard

A jumping or slipping chain is frequently caused by a mis-measured concatenation, worn drivetrain components, or a potent chain link.

• Your chain may exist besides long or have stretched over time. This video will help you properly mensurate your chain length.
• You may have a stiff chain link. If you inspect your chain and find a stiff link you can easily loosen it by holding the adjacent links and gently applying lateral pressure to the stiff link to free up its plates. Do this every bit close as possible to the potent link to avoid bending other links.
• Your chainring or cassette may be worn and in demand of replacement. If you lot recently replaced your concatenation and information technology is jumping all over the place this is an indication that your cassette or chainring demand to be replaced every bit well.

This Black Locus made a fantastic bike stand up. Hardwood trees like this one won't exist bothered past a piddling bike weight.

I've adjusted everything and my bicycle however isn't shifting correctly

• Some shifting systems require unlike amounts of pressure and speed applied to the shift paddle. If nothing else works, try changing the speed and/or pressure you employ to the shift lever.
• Worn parts eventually don't piece of work too as they once did. The plastic gears inside your shifter wear out, bondage stretch, gear teeth wear to "shark teeth," derailleur pulleys become crunchy and less responsive, springs end springing, and derailleur cages get bent out of whack. Some shifting issues can simply exist remedied with new components.
• Drivetrain parts are designed by skilled engineers to piece of work with great precision and tight tolerances. If your mix of components is non designed to work together yous will not exist able to achieve perfect shifting. For example, if you have a derailleur designed for a cassette with a maximum range of xi-42t and you are running an xi-46t cassette, you will probable hear a lot of noise in the lower gears, among other issues.
• Chains are far less expensive than cassettes. An inexpensive chain-habiliment tool will allow know exactly when information technology is time to bandy the links, keeping your cassette in summit shape equally long equally possible. For reference, I change my concatenation roughly 4 times per flavour on my daily driver, and a cassette typically lasts two or three years.
• Loose or worn pulley wheels tin can greatly affect shifting. If your pulleys wobble, the teeth are worn, or the bearings/bushings are sticky you will need to supersede them so the derailleur tin can properly practice its job.
• Chainrings bolts occasionally work loose. Forth with all of the component tightening and placement checklists to a higher place, brand sure your cranks and chainring bolts (or direct-mount lockring) are tight. Excessive movement from the chainring tin cause poor shifting, dropped chains, and a host of other issues.
• Some frames take more than flex than others, merely as some riders are stronger than others. If you lot have a particularly flexy frame or are creature stiff, or both, y'all can crusade the frame to flex enough that your bike volition shift or drop its chain. In this instance, you demand to trade out your frame for a stiffer one, or chill out. The solution here depends on your upkeep.

If the above solutions don't fix your problem, your local mechanic certainly can.

Have you experienced shifting bug that are not listed above? Practice you know of possible solutions we didn't mention? Please share them with usa in the comments.

For more rear gear goodness, cheque out this video on trailside derailleur hanger adjustment, and this i on how to use a derailleur hanger alignment tool.

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High Gears on Derailler Do Not Work as Well as the Low Gears UPDATED

Posted by: noahhicassele.blogspot.com